Wed Jul 6, 2005
HELSINKI (
Reuters)
Finland, with its rye malt porridge and blood sausages, may be an easy target for leaders of Europe's gastronomic centres -- France and Italy.
But while French President Jacques Chirac and Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi stick in the knife with their culinary jibes, locals and visitors say fish and good, fresh food were typical of the Nordic country.
"We make ravioli ... but our Finnish meat and macaroni casserole is just as good as that Italian food," said Tuula Sundell, a restaurant owner in central Helsinki.
"And Berlusconi and Chirac are always welcome to taste our entrail dishes," she said of a meal considered a delicacy in both France and Italy.
Chirac was quoted telling German Chancellor Gerhard Schroeder and Russian President Vladimir Putin on Sunday that "after Finland, (Britain) is the country with the worst food".
Many Finns found Berlusconi's comments offensive when he said last month: "I have been to Finland and I had to endure the Finnish diet."
Traditional food like kalakukko -- fish and bacon baked in a loaf for 20 hours -- is rarely found on menus where lightly salted salmon and fresh potatoes are more typical in summer.
"All the new vegetables, the new potatoes, are wonderful because we have so much sunlight in the summertime, and of course the fresh fish is excellent," said Jarmo Vaha-Savo, head chef at Helsinki gourmet restaurant GW Sundman.
LAST LAUGH
Two of Finlands' main daily papers devoted two pages to comments from chefs, diplomats and journalists outraged at the barbs from Europe's big fish.
"In all honesty, when a tourist comes to Finland and goes to an ordinary Finnish restaurant, it's a copy of a European menu, not as good as in France or in Italy," said Ari Vatanen, a Finnish-born French member of the European Parliament, also known for a successful rally driving career.
"We do have a very rich food culture but the ordinary tourists don't see that because they go to mid-class restaurants," he said.
Finland's produce won high marks from visitors.
"The fish is great here," said Derek Silva, a Canadian living in Finland. "When I bring friends or family here I have no problem taking them to a Finnish-style restaurant."
Chirac received a light-hearted invitation to dinner from another Finnish EU lawmaker, Alexander Stubb, who offered to serve up fish and chips Finnish-style -- roe of vendace with Lapland potato chips.
In the end, the northern Europeans may have the last laugh over the paunched burghers and portly matrons of the south.
Rates of obesity and heart disease have dropped in recent years in Finland partly due to public health campaigns encouraging lighter food, a spokesman for Finland's National Public Health Institute said.